"No More Dirty Looks: The Truth about you Beauty Products and the Ultimate Guide to Safe and Clean Cosmetics" is considered one of the primers on greener, cleaner beauty. Though my
already-present skepticism surrounding conventional beauty products made me receptive to the authors' point of view, I feel that they did a good job at making the information accessible and relatable to those who might be unaware of (or don't [yet] care about) the risks of conventional beauty products. The information is eye-opening, and I have the feeling that anyone who picks up this book might either feel a panicky urge to dump all of their dirty beauty products, or they will want to take a shovel and bury the book deep in their backyard, denying that there's any reason to ever part ways with their beloved face cream.
That said, the authors do a really good job at giving you a level-headed approach to natural, cleaner beauty-- no drastic measures needed. They cover the why, the what and the how. One of the best points I took away from the book is to take a slow and strategic approach to the products you want to change. After learning a bit about the common controversial ingredients and assessing for yourself the risks associated with them, the authors recommend starting with the products that you use most often on the largest area of the body, particularly those that sit on the skin for extended periods of time-- so, things like moisturizer and deodorant are a good place to start, whereas mascara and eye shadow could be further down on the list.
I appreciate that the authors aren't fanatical; they acknowledge that if you only wear that perfect red lipstick a few times a year (and it makes you feel like a million bucks when you do), then go ahead and keep it in your beauty box. They also give extensive recommendations for natural beauty products that they're fans of, and many brands are consistent with those I've heard recommended by the natural beauty vloggers I watch on YouTube-- brands like Jane Iredale, Dr. Hauschka, Bare Minerals, RMS Beauty, and more.
A few of the main points I'm taking away from the book:
1) The cosmetics industry is a self-regulating industry. The group appointed to oversee ingredient safety is the "Cosmetics Ingredient Review" (CIR), made up of chemists and medical experts appointed and funded by their own industry lobbying group, the Personal Care Product Council; no independent review system exists. In the span of 32 years, the CIR assessed 1,468 ingredients for safety, which equals out to 11% of the possible ingredients in personal care products. Let me repeat-- only 11% of all ingredients have been tested for safety. (Side note: As expected, the PCPC lobbying group spends a great deal of money and effort campaigning against proposed cosmetic regulations.)
And if you think the FDA has a say in what products reach the market, here is their stance: "with the exception of color additives and a few prohibited ingredient, a cosmetics manufacturer may, on his own responsibility, use essentially any raw material as a cosmetics ingredient and market the product without approval" (20).
2) Only 9 cosmetic ingredients have been banned from use in the USA, compared with over 1,000 ingredients in Europe.
3) Substances placed on the skin can absolutely be absorbed into
the body. If you don't think that's true, just consider how a nicotine
patch works, or Ortho Evra birth control patches. Babies are being born with toxins already present in their system.
4) When ingredients are tested for safety, bio-accumulation is often overlooked. This means, for example, when rats are injected with a chemical to determine safe dosage amounts, there aren't additional studies showing how continued exposure affect their bodies. We humans use body products every single day, so bio-accumulation is a very real concern for us-- particularly women, who typically use about three times as many products daily as men. The way different chemicals interact in the body is something else that is often overlooked in studies.
5) Chemicals/Ingredients to avoid include: 1,4-dioxane (occurs in products with the ingredients PEG, polyethylene, and polyethylene glycol, among others); aluminum/aluminum salts; chemical sunscreens (a.k.a. PABA, oxybenzone); coal tar; diethanolamine (DEA)/triethanolamine (TEA)/monoethanolamine (MEA)/ethanolamine (ETA); formaldehyde (a.k.a. cormalin, formic aldehyde, methyl aldehyde, oxymethane); fragrance; hydroquinone; lead and mercury; nanoparticles; parabens; petroleum distillates; p-phenylenediamine; phenoxyethanol; propylene glycol (PG)/ethylene glycol/diethylene glycol/polyethylene glycol (PEG); sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate; talc; toluene; triclosan.
These products are in literally
everything from toothpaste to hair dye to children's shampoo to deodorant to mascara to sunscreen to lipstick.
Since this list is totally overwhelming-- at least to me-- I advise printing this guide to keep in your wallet.
6) Various risks associated with the above chemicals (with many more specifics in the book): known carcinogen; neurotoxin; found in human breast tissue; suspected carcinogen; endocrine disruptor; known human carcinogen; alters brain development in fetal mice; known carcinogen connected to several types of human cancers; irritant and allergen; bioaccumulation; eye clouding; lead poisoning; organ failure; muscle tremors; mental deterioration; miscarriages; smaller babies; gene damage; migration in body tissue; hormone mimic; found in breast cancer tissue; undifferentiated connective tissue disease; bronchial problems; skin and eye irritant; reproductive and developmental toxicity; birth defects; systemic toxicity; death.
And this isn't just a list of
hypothetical effects-- these problems have been documented in studies by the EPA, the Agency for Toxic Substances & Disease Registry, the Journal of Chemical Neuroanatomy, and more (check the book for specific risks and references).
7) "Fragrance" is a beast of a category in itself. Why? Not only is it present in almost every single conventional beauty product, but fragrance is also protected by law as a trade secret. Therefore companies do no have to divulge what makes up their fragrance-- it can literally be any number of several hundred possible chemicals. And if you happen to have an allergy to one of those, good luck pinpointing the culprit; it's next to impossible since companies are under no obligation to divulge their formulas and ingredients. Of all the products discussed in the book, fragrance/perfume is the
only one that the authors strongly encourage readers to reconsider and limit usage because it doesn't just affect you, it affects everyone around you as well.
8) Many chemicals in makeup and personal care products work against the
natural processes of the body, locking us into a cycle of dependency on
the product. Great for product sales, not so great for our bodies. Some
of you might have heard this in regards to shampoo-- most drugstore
shampoos strip your hair of it's natural, beneficial oils, causing your scalp to overcompensate by over-producing oil, making you feel like a greaseball who desperately needs to shampoo again. Similar cycles
also happens with other products like toners (which are largely made up of alcohol and severely dehydrate your skin) and moisturizer.
9) Again, if you are overwhelmed thinking about switching
your body and beauty products,
the authors recommend taking into account
the amount of product you use/how much of the body you cover with the
product, and how long the product remains on your body.
10) You can make your own Benetint using BEETS! I don't know why, but I got such a kick out of learning this. After reading this DIY tip in the book, I found instructions online
here and
here. I don't know if I'll ever try it, but I love just knowing that it's possible (and so simple and natural!).
A few small criticisms of the book:
- Though it's no fault of the authors, the book was published in 2010, so some of the information could potentially be outdated. Products, formulas, and even laws could have shifted over the past 3-4 years. However, I still think the information is applicable and still mostly relevant.
- Though there tons of footnotes and references to studies-- which is something I'd require from a book like this-- I still felt it was a
little light on explaining the science behind some of their accusations and suggestions within the body of the book. It's simple enough for your average non-chemist reader though, which I think most people would appreciate.
- I found the last section of the book covering "Lifestyle" to be a bit fluffy and unnecessary. I think we all know that we'd be better off with less stress, more exercise, deeper breaths, and more vegetables and omega-3s.
Overall, I highly recommend No More Dirty Looks to anyone who regularly wears makeup and uses personal care products. So, basically everyone. I don't think most women pay enough attention to what they're putting on their bodies.
Other similar/related books that I have on my To Read list:
-
There's Lead in Your Lipstick by Gillian Deacon
-
Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry by Stacy Malkan
-
The Truth About Beauty by Kat James
And, as a bonus, here are a few recent blog posts pertinent to this topic:
-
Putting It on Your Skin Does Let It in: What's in Skin Care and How It Affects Your Health via HuffPo
-
10 Ingredients to Avoid in Beauty Products via VMac & Cheese
-
Makeup, Uncovered via Darling Magazine
Next up, I'll be taking a survey of my current beauty routine and assessing what needs changing. I also plan to share the various websites and brands I've bookmarked and/or used to find natural alternatives.
I hope some of you are finding this information useful. I think it's really important, and hope that it is a topic that people-- especially women-- will give a little more thought to.
And If you made it all the way down to the end of this epic post, my hat goes off to you, friend :)